Everest day by day |  |
Manuel & André are back in Montreal since June 2, 2009 @ 5:30 pm
1st Quebecer to attain the summit of
the Everest for the second time
To reach the summit of the highest mountain in the world, is the challenge that the two alpinists Manuel A. Pizarro and André S. Rossin-Arthiat want to accomplish. But they also have an objective to raise funds for the Quebec Lung Association, in order to help the asthmatic children and persons with COPD (Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease).
Follow every week in words and in pictures the evolution of their journey, and do not forget to check the report of this great adventure till the end.
Wishing them a good trip!
A word from Manuel
Near the summit !!!
Camp 2...continued
Camp 2
I'm crossing my fingers and my toes !!
An important message from André
First Camp
Wow. ..wow...wow the Everest in all its splendor!!!
On the roads to Tibet!
On the way to the North side's base camp
The North side
We redescend to better climb back up
Base camp
Almost at the Base Camp...
Our body feels the altitude effects
Spiritual meetings
Towards the Base Camp
It started!
March 15th, 2009 an amazing day
The last preparations before the ascension begins
Our first days in Nepal
The big departure
 A word from Manuel
May 30, 2009 - I'm here, in a restaurant at Katmandu, only two days to our departure to Montreal. I feel a certain peace in me, but also a heavy heart, because Frank Ziebarth, my friend and expedition companion did not return alive from the mountain.
Frank lived in Calgary with his fiancée Christina. He possessed a physical strenght almost superhuman; I would have never thought that he would not return with us. I do not want to discuss in detail the circumstances of his death for the moment, but I wanted to talk about HIS LIFE, in this message.
Frank was a top alpinist, a funny and generous man. I shared several good moments on the Everest with him and Alexander Paré, J.P., Marc-André, Anna, and of course my great friend André Rossin-Arthiat. During several nights, we all had crazy laughs while hearing our stories, our jokes and, the strange habits of our friend Luigi... the Italian.
 Tomorrow, I must clean all my equipment, do my laundry that smells awful! Verify the regulators and sell back the empty oxygen bottles. I weighed myself: I have lost 30 pounds since April 20.
I feel proud to have collaborated with the Quebec Lung Association, our precious sponsors and all those who supported this project by donating. Everest 2009 is not finished and the job of financing it has just begun. Among others, a Gala and the presentation of 'the film of the expedition' will take place very soon.
To my family, my friends and all the team of Everest 2009... my summit of May 21 belongs to you!
Manuel Pizarro
THE SUMMIT AT LAST!!!
May 21, 2009 - Manuel attained the summit last night around 10:15 pm !!!!! He communicated with his family and friends that had mustered themselves to await his telephone call from the summit of the world!
Near the summit !!!
May 20, 2009 - The time has come, Manny is pushing for the summit tonight and he estimates to be there between 8-9 pm. He add, if you can make it, please make a prayer for me and the 3 others (2 sherpas and Jaime) that are all summiting together.
Camp 2...continued
May 20, 2009 - Manny just phoned in again from Camp 2. He is there with a climber from Ecuador by the name of Jairo. He plans to head for Camp 3 tomorrow hoping to reach the summit on May 22nd 2009.
Camp 2
May 19, 2009 - Manny phoned in this morning, says that everything is going well. He has already reached Camp 2 and intends to move towards Camp 3 tomorrow. His phone calls are now limited to 30 seconds as he wants to save his battery for making phone calls from the summit. We are all anxiously awaiting Manny's call live from the top of the world!
I'm crossing my fingers and my toes !!
May 18, 2009 - The weather has finally calmed down and Manny has decided to climb back up to Camps 1-2-3 and attempt the summit bid for May 20th Montreal time late in the evening (or China time early morning on the 21 of May) With favorable weather Manny should be able to attack the summit with conviction, but mother nature forecast a snow fall or probable storm that could interrupt the summit attempt for this season. Our climber is confident and hopeful that he will miss the storm, summit and come home very soon.
An important message from André 
May 18, 2009 - Cheers to you all,
Due to pulmonary edema in both lungs and a drop in weight of 32 lbs over 17 days, I was forced to terminate my expedition on May 11th 2009. Here is a brief account of the events that have followed this day.
We were halfway between Advanced Camp at 20,120 feet and Camp 4 at 23,000 feet. As Manny and I were heading to Camp 4, I started to experience signs of bloody sputum, chest tightening and shortness of breath.
From April 27th and onward, my appetite dropped significantly leading to a severe loss in physical strength. To make things worse, the weather conditions we had to deal with at Advanced Base Camp were awful; gushing winds of 70 km/h every night and snow storms for 10 days straight.
High altitude pulmonary edema is a critical medical condition that requires immediate treatment. Being a paramedic, I started taking emergency medication prior to our 10 hour descent, by foot, in a snow storm, towards the base camp located at 17,500 feet of altitude. This was a very difficult time for me as I coughed non stop and could hardly breathe. Calling 911 is not an option when you're on the mountain. You go down or you die, it's as simple as that! We managed to come back down together, as a twosome. I then took a jeep to get to Katmandu’s Base Camp through the Chinese frontier, Zhangmu. This jeep trip was atrocious: 16 hours. The roads are in construction and are pretty rough. I was forced to take additional medication to treat my pulmonary edema. This ordeal helped me understand the problems that people who suffer from asthma or emphysema face every day. It is extenuating to gasp for air every 30 seconds and to cough non stop. An experience I will never forget!
As soon as I arrived in Katmandu, I rushed to a high altitude medical clinic. The X-rays confirmed that I was indeed suffering from pulmonary edema and that the decision to abandon my ascent and come back down was a wise one, not to mention the fact that I had also lost 32 lbs in 17 lbs. A Czech had presented himself at the clinic the day before with the same symptoms as myself but had not taken any medication. He was immediately transferred to a hospital in Czechoslovakia as his condition was critical. He was actually assisted by three sherpas on his way down as he could barely stand up. You can die from high altitude pulmonary edema within 4 to 12 hours if you don’t go back down fast enough.
Ending my days on a mountain was not worth it, no matter what the mountain. Nonetheless, in spite of all the challenges I faced, the lessons I learned will last me forever. Surviving on a mountain while facing a medical emergency makes all the difference because calling 911 is not an option. I will NEVER forget this experience. Summiting is an option; coming back in one piece is an obligation.
Being a paramedic, I was able to bring medical assistance to a number of climbers and to save the life of three climbers/trekkers on my way to the top of Mount Everest. I am currently resting and regaining strength.
Manny anticipates reaching the summit around the 21st of May, weather conditions allowing. I wish him all the luck in the world.
I thank you all for your support and can't wait to see you back in Montreal.
André S. Rossin-Arthiat
Medical Director - Everest2009.ca
 First Camp
May 4, 2009 - Hello everyone,
We have finally made it to Advanced Base Camp 20,120 feet on May 4th. The weather is crisp cold and the winds strong and harsh making us not forget who rules this mountain. The weather and the collapse of an avalanche on the North Cole has delayed our ascent to the next camps. The window of opportunity for summit day and the end of season for climbing Everest is approaching. Waiting for the new ropes to be fixed following the avalanche and for the winds to calm down has affected our plans of bringing our loads of equipment and oxygen to the higher camps. Our challenge right now will be to eliminate extra weight and receive any help we can get to carry our loads. Physically we are doing good, we have lost a considerable amount of weight, we have headaches and decrease appetite, all of which is to be expected at high altitude. We have started eating a liquid diet that supplies us with the nutrients needed for cellular energy, this will also be our sole summit diet.
We plan to push to the next camps on May 7 to set up camps 1-3 and then reach for the summit of Everest on May 15 or 16 or maybe sooner.
Our next update will be from satellite phone on the top of Mount Everest! Until then thank you all for your support and encouragement !
Manny and Andre
 Wow. ..wow...wow the Everest in all its splendor!!!
April 25, 2009 First, they are delighted to inform you that because of the olympics of 2008, the roads of Kodari to Tingri were in a lot better conditions than in 2007. 70% of the roads are newly paved and, after the city of Jangmu they were able to roll in good pace. Therefore, they have arrived at the base camp more quickly.
But, as everything in life, what is good also can be bad, and what is bad can finally have positive consequences. The fact that they crossed the valleys and mountings more quickly, it also says that they climbed to 11,000 feet in a little less than 72 hours. It is necessary to remember that the ascension time of the south side requires more than 14 days to attain this altitude. Fortunately, their bodies are still semi acclimated. They met other mountaineers that literally were crushed by the altitude and they had to go back down until their departure point to Kodari. Manuel and André are left breathless, but they can hold.
Here are some photos of the jeeps and the base camp. Currently, the devices charged by the solar energy are at their lowest level, the guys will take care of the refill and will send another message with more photos Tuesday.
On the roads to Tibet!
April 24, 2009, Manuel and André are currently on the road heading towards the base camp of the north side. They will arrive probably Monday. Nevertheless, if the jeeps have no mechanical problems or flat tires, they will arrive maybe tomorrow evening. They are at 120 km of the basic camp, but their speed is at 20 km per hour.
 On the way to the North side's base camp
April 22, 2009. Hello to the gang of the Quebec Lung Association, our families and friends. ..!
It is the big official departure! Tomorrow, our friends will take the way to the city of Kodari. They will cross the "friendship bridge" built several years ago by China and Nepal. This bridge is at about 20 meters above a turbulent river originated from the Himalayan mountains.
They then must land all their equipment off the truck and cross it on foot. They have more than 500 kilos of equipment. Next, on the other side of the bridge, their Tibetan contacts will load again the trucks and the jeeps. The bridge is to be crossed only on foot, for the Nepalese vehicles are not authorized to circulate into China.
Next, they will go to the city of Jangmu where they will pass a night. They will be at more than 10 000 feet of altitude. The next day, they will follow a sinuous road of beaten earth into the mountains during at least 80 kilometers, which will bring them to the small city of Nyalam, situated at 13, 000 feet, where they will stay for one or two nights. They will do another day of 6 hours in Jeep. They will go until an even smaller city called Tingri. The Tibetans say that the Gods dropped a pin and, that the city was named "ting-ri" because that represents the sound the pin did when it fell on the ground.
Manuel and André will be at the North base camp, Tuesday April 28... Manuel adds to his message: "A big thanks to the Quebec Lung Association and to our sponsors for their undeniable support. Another big hello too, to all the students of John XXIII secondary school; the school where I did my secondary studies. I celebrate, this year, my 20th year of graduating".
"Aim higher, John XXIII"
The North side
April 19, 2009, A "Hello friends, family and sponsors!" from the climbers.
The last two weeks were very busy, for Manuel and André have, for a second time, changed their ascension plans. They received confirmation that China finally opened its doors and, that the permits to climb the Everest from the North side are now available.
They are therefore returned to their departure point, the airport of Lukla, at 9000 feet of altitude, after a 27 hours trek. Since more than a week, they have been negotiating their permits, visas, yaks, etc.... for the North. The logistics are so different.
They are supposed to leave towards the border of the Tibet on Wednesdays April 22. It is a little late, for normally, the alpinists leave around April 7 for that side. Nevertheless, Manuel says that he is confident that they will have sufficient time to arrive to the summit towards May 15. They foresee to return to Montreal on June 1st.
Our two climbers say to you: See you later! Our next contact will be from Tibet, in roughly a week!
We redescend to better climb back up !!!
April 9, 2009, Hello Montreal, hello Quebec, our friends in Canada and, all those who follow us day-to-day !!!!!! These are the first words written by Manuel when he contacted us.
Our two adventurous ones are at the base camp since more than a week, they say to be completely acclimated. The teams of Korea, Russia, Canada, India, United States, etc. almost all arrived at the camp. Manuel and André are proud to say they were the first on the spot.
Now, they will start a descent to rest, to refuel and to take care of their personal hygiene!!! Well yes... this is part of the mountain difficulties!!! Other than to wash with a hand towel.... there is nothing else!!!
They will go back to their departure point, and then will start to climb and continue the ascension around April 15. Also, there have been rumours that the North side is open. Our two friends will therefore verify if it is true, and if so, they will change maybe, once more, their plans, for the expenses of ascension and the dangers on the North side are least.
Base camp
April 2, 2009, Our two adventurous are currently at the base camp, it is extremely cold and their hands are frozen. They are the first ones! A Korean team is at 3 days of marching behind them.
Manuel and André began nourishing with the food brought for the expedition, they wrote to us: " We miss the food of Montreal! Ah the good pizzas and poutines! "
They are in good shape, they will rest for 2 days and then will begin climbing Kumbu glacier on April 9.
Here is a photo of our two friends. They are at Kalapathar (18 445 feet of altitude).
Almost at the Base Camp...
A small word to inform you that we are currently a day of trek away from the basic camp. The temperature being bad, our solar panel charges poorly our batteries, and our internet connection is very slow, therefore I will not be able to write you for long.
Nevertheless, we passed a warm night!!!! Our friends of the center of meteorology research accommodate us for a night. We will leave tonight, around 4 am for the base camp. I will write you from there !
Our body feels the altitude effects
Thursday, March 26, 2009 : We are presently in the town of Penboche in the valley of Sagarmatha National Park. The altitude and the lack of barometric pressure is affecting us. Our cardiac and respiratory rhythms are accelerated. Our physical condition resembles that of a person suffering from a serious respiratory disease at sea level.
Our oxygen saturation in our blood is from 89 % to 92 % at 12 500 feet, which is normal for us at this altitude, but for a person living in Montreal, that would be a dangerous situation that requires hospitalization. Our progress is slow, but that is intentional, for it is necessary to give our body the time to become accustomed to these conditions.
During our ascension, we already helped 3 people that suffered from the altitude sickness. André with his background in paramedical, managed first aids to a young Tibetan, Manuel recognized the symptoms of cerebral oedema and she was evacuated by carrier towards the Kumjung hospital.
Spiritual meetings
To this day, we were very lucky, because we continue to meet people of the Tibetan culture. Today, we wanted to visit the temple of Tengboche, but the visit was not granted. Nevertheless, after showing them the Vase that lama Rinpoche gave us to bring to the Everest summit, a young Tibetan monk accepted to talk and explained to us a day in the life of a monk. He also opened for us the temple doors, then we offered him 10 chocolate bars.
Tomorrow, we will meet the lama Geshi at the small Monastery of Penboche. This wise man blessed Manuel in 2007 before his ascension of the north side of the Everest. His predictions and humour of Chomolungma (Everest in Tibetan) was in our favour. Special prayers are recited every day. We hope that the lama Geshi predicts also this year, a favourable season of climbing of the South side.
 Towards the Base Camp
Today is March 21, 2009 and we have been trekking through the mountains for 3 days now. Step by step, through the misty mountains, slowly getting higher and higher. We left Katmandu at around 5: 30 in the morning on March 19 and took a flight in a Canadian built Twin-Otter airplane. The ride was a bit bumpy but not as turbulent as other years I had traveled to the Solo Kumbu region. The landing was good but we were definitely afraid. Up until a few minutes before seeing Lukla from the air, the scenery from the cockpit had been very foggy. Three months ago, fog at Lukla Airport had caused a crash killing several people.
Meeting Lama Rinpoche the previous week gave us confidence. Our plans had been uncertain given the situation with China closing its borders to tourists but after we met Lama Rinpoche things started to make sense and we just decided to take it one day at a time. While resting I saw something very curious. Several black birds were jumping in the frigid waters of the Dudh Koshi River and swimming under water, it was amazing to see how both animals and humans have adapted to this remote region of the world.
As we approached Namche Bazar, we crossed several suspension bridges including the Larja Suspension Bridge that had to be over 300 feet high. At around 6 pm we entered Namche Bazar situated at around 3440 meters above sea level or approximately 11,350 feet of elevation. Our breaths were deep feeling winded but the altitude. Memories of past expeditions came to mind, friends with whom I had trekked with in 1998 and 2007. The fog set in again and it started to snow my heart missing the people I love back home.
The Sherpa people here work extremely hard. Some Porters head up with only rubber slippers on their feet. It makes us realize that back home, many of us complain with a full stomach when here, the locals jus want a roof over their heads, food and clothing to stay warm. Possessions and fashion gear from Dolce Gabana and Prada, might as well be a far away planet in another galaxy.
We are now heading towards Fincho Lodge at 12, 500 feet and then the Tengboche Monastery. From there we will rest in Pheriche for two days finally arriving at Lobuche Lodge on or about March 26th where we will send our next update. We should arrive at Everest Base Camp on March 30th.
Last time I traveled this route, a juvenile Snow Leopard followed me for about 3 kilometers, playing hide and seek with me. It was awesome. Maybe my furry playful friend will visit me again this time.
It started!
March 19 at 7:00 am, Manuel and André prepare themselves for a flight in a small airplane that will take them from Katmandu to Lukla at 2,860 meters of altitude. From that point, they will start a trek to the basic camp at 5,380 meters of altitude on the south side of the Everest. This approaching march normally takes between six and eight days. It will be as an acclimation trip in altitude in order to avoid a first mountain sickness.
As explained before, China closed the North Side of Everest because of political unrest between the Tibetan People and the Republic of China. This year commemorates the 50th year of the Dalai Lama being sent into exile. The Chinese government predicted riots and looting but nothing of the sort seems to have occurred. Days before the anniversary of the exile, the Dalai Lama himself broadcasted a worldwide message to all Tibetans asking for peaceful demonstrations and avoid violence as this would go against their ways. One thing is certain is you can feel the unrest in the population.
 March 15th, 2009 an amazing day
March 15th despite our upcoming obstacles, was an amazing day. Our climbers had the amazing opportunity to meet Lama Rinpoche who is an important Tibetan Buddhist monk of the Tengboche Monastery. He was in Katmandu for a short period of time and they magically crossed roads with him. Their friend Samden's grandmother or "Bahida Mama" is a devoted Buddhist and she called Manuel and Andre to tell them of Lama Rinpoche's surprise visit to her home.
Finally, they attended the location and Lama Rinpoche began to speak and to chant Buddhist prayers. He seemed perplexed and confused. You could even describe him as perturbed by their presence. Manuel had met Lama Geishi in 2007 and he could sense a very different energy this time. In fact he believed the Lama Rinpoche was going to ask them not to go up and chastise them for trying.
The Lama Rinpoche began to pray and chant some more and asked the gods what was the purpose of their trip the great Chomolungma. In fact he asked her (Everest) directly for permission and safe passage. He presented them with a "Peace Vase" the Tendrel Nyesel Bumpa. A vase containing prayers, sands, juniper and many other secret ingredients blessed by the Dalai Lama himself.
The Tendrel Nyesel Bumpa is a vajrayana teaching and Buddhist practice for eliminating, preventing, protecting against and, transforming harm and conflict of every kind. There is an all-encompassing power and universal quality to the Tendrel Nyesel Bumpa. This one is famed as a vase dedicated specifically to assisting the world with the inauspiciousness of the times and it is said to be the most powerful practices for bringing peace to a region and the world.
They have been chosen to bring a single Tendrel Nyesel Bumpa vase to the summit of Everest to help good fortune to Nepal and the world. This duty has come to them and they have been blessed with a favorable climbing season to the great Chomolungma "Mother Goddess of the Earth".
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| logistical preparation |
The last preparations before the ascension begins
Manuel and André miss a lot their families and friends. On the other hand, since thir arrival to Katmandu, they had the luck to rest a little, but the logistics preparation occupies them enormously.
The political problems in China caused them several headaches. They will not be able to start the ascension from the north side of the mountain; from the Tibet side, as planned. They officially will have to go through the south side of the mountain; from Nepal side. Being in that situation, they had a lot of fear not being able to get the permit of ascension for the south side.
The expeditions cost a lot more from Nepal. The permits are more expensive and the Yaks (animals that carry the luggage to the first camp) go to only 17,500 feet and not to 20,120 feet of altitude, which is going to demand more logistics to bring the luggage and provisions. They had to modify everything in a record time (their food & equipment reservation for the ascension on the south side of the mountain) especially that their provisions were already on the way for the Tibet (north side). They had to ask to return these.
They will begin the ascension on March 19 towards the first camp.
Our first days in Nepal
The arrival of our two climbers to Katmandu was very calm. After obtaining their visa for Nepal, their friend Samden welcomed them at the airport and brought them to their hotel, the Yak & Yeti. He presented them the Nepalese scarf, the Kata, in sign of friendship and welcoming. Arriving at the hotel, they met the president of Sri Lanka that was on the spot. For reasons of security, the photos were forbidden. Finally, they slept 14 hours due to the jet lag.
Today, March 4, our two climbers began their logistics such as to find the oxygen regulators and their oxygen bottles. Manuel noticed that all is more expensive than at the time of his first expedition in 2007. The government increased prices and taxes on most of the products and services. For example, the cost of the visa to enter the country was $30.00 US in 2007 for 90 days. Now, it is $100.00 US for 90 days.
At the end, here is a message from André and of Manuel:
"We thank all of our sponsors. Without them, this trip would have been impossible. Thanks to our families who backed and encouraged us. We will be very careful, we promise you. We equally thank all those who wrote us messages of encouragement from British Colombia to Montreal. Thanks a lot!
Manuel and André
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| Photos des alpinistes à l’aéroport |
The big departure
After a year in preparation, an intensive search for sponsors, hundreds of e-mails, of calls and a lot of stress, here at last our climbers in the airplane on road towards Katmandu in Nepal. The airplane left Montreal at 7:45 pm on Sunday, March 1, towards a first landing in London, England.
As soon as they land, they will transfer planes to another stop in Doha. They will set off again towards Katmandu in Nepal where they will rest for a few days and also for some logistics before the big departure: the beginning of the ascension of the Everest.
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